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Welcome to the Advice – Dogs Reflective Vest
If you take your dog out in dark or secuded places like woodland, you need a dog safety vest to make them highly visible to you and to other hunters. This vest could prevent a tragic accident.
Out in the seclution, miles from the nearest town, if your dog has an accident, it will likely be fatal. Even a wound that is not immediately life-threatening could cause death if they go into shock.
Prevent it all from happening by making them as visible as possible with a reflective vest.
If you like to take late night walks with your dog, they could become another traffic fatality if you don’t make them visible to traffic, including cyclists.
A bicycle dog collision in a park or field, or on a road or woodland trail, could easily cause serious trauma.
A reflective vest will help prevent this tragedy by giving a rider enough time time to brake or take evasive action.
Although car dog collisions are likely to be restricted to roadways, they are much more likely to lead to death or maiming. Stopping a car takes much more time and distance than does stopping a bicycle.
Give your dog a chance by keeping him decked out in a dog safety vest.
How To Choose A Good Vest
A dog safety vest should be as bright as possible. A bright or fluorescent orange color is the best for high visibility.
Look for a vest with a lot of reflective stripes, webbing or trim.
The more reflective material on the vest, the safer your dog will be at night.
This reflective material should provide 360° visibility.
Look for a vest that covers all of his back and rib cage area. The more his chest is covered, the better.
If the vest does not travel down to the tail, ensure that it at least covers all the rib cage and upper back.
There is at least one vest designed to protect the chest between the legs, as well as the underarms, from abrasions due to bushes and thorns. Unfortunately, it does not cover much of the lower back or abdomen.
Most vests are available in a range of sizes.
Use one that fits your dog snugly. Loose material could become snagged in underbrush, or a branch could slide between his skin and the vest, and possibly scratch or wound him.
See the graphic below for help measuring your dog.
If you’re using the vest to protect him while hunting, keep it with your hunting gear so that you always have it with you when you get to the camp.
And consider purchasing an extra dog safety vest to keep in your car or truck for those unplanned stops after the sun goes down.
Anything that improves your dog’s visibility improves his chance of avoiding injury by shooting or collision.
Give them the chance they deserves with a dog safety vest.
You’ll need to act quickly and correctly if your dog, or any other dog, is seriously ill, injured or poisoned. Learn what dog first aid to provide in various situations to relieve her suffering and keep her alive until the veterinarian can take over.
Serious injuries mean handling your dog carefully and transporting her to the veterinary clinic. You’ll have to lift her in a way that limits any further damage, and minimizes her pain.
What You’ll Find Here
Dog First Aid 101 is your source for information on all these aspects of canine care. Throughout the site, you’ll find links to valuable resources, along with recommendations for products to help you keep your dog healthy and safe. We’re here to help you help your dog, so that she’ll continue to live a long, happy life.
May You Never Need It
I hope you never have to use any of the emergency and first aid information and resources you’ll find in Dog First Aid 101. And I hope you’ll use all of the prevention and preparation information, so that your dog can continue to live a happy, healthy life with you.
Don’t Put It Off
Planning and preparing for your dog’s emergency are like writing your will — they’re not something many of us want to do, or even consider. But just like a will, you do need to have them, for your dog’s sake. You’ll feel better knowing that you can keep your dog alive and reduce her suffering during any emergency situation.
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Lea’s First Visit To TheBeach…
Well, its been a long week for Humandad, working away in London, whilst Lea stays with her Auntie Ashleigh. 🙂
So as a special treat for Lea, I decided to take advantage of little trip I had to do, when helping out a friend in Southport. With Southport only beiong a ten minute drive from the beach, we thought Lea would enjoy it and get a good swimming session. Slight problem, I forgot the tide might out. opps, 🙂
After a little messing around from our little baby Lea, she was finally in the car and ready to head off to the beach, although she actually had no idea where we were going, but she was still excited. Wagging tail and nose rubs all over the place.
So we headed of on the drive for Southport from Manchester, being a round a hours drive, Lea had all her creature comforts in the car with her, her bed, her toys etc etc. Although it was a rough start and she didnt really want to settle down, she finally settled and just watched the world go by through her window with the air breezing through her fur. Window opened just enough for her to feel the breeze. 🙂
Within no time, we finally arrived at Southport and Nana Pamela was there waiting for us. Kettle was on and Lea had a fresh bowl of cool water ready for her. Obviously being a new place Lea just had to go smelling every where she could.
It quickly became rather obvious, whilst Pamela and I were sorting out her new smart phone and Laptop, Lea was getting rather board, so we took her out into the communal garden. Where as you would expect Lea was in heaven, loads of new smells and places to check out. The crafty little so and so, even went and popped her head through a neighbour window to say “Hi”, to Pamela’s neighbours as well. Wandering around, (and through various peoples little gardens smelling all the plants, Lea just loved every moment of it all. Unfortunately, as most dogs do, she left a little treat for everybody through the means of a smelly JT, which I obviously cleared up with an old faithful plastic bag. 🙂
After returning back indoors to finish off the phone and computer, it was time to head off to be beach, with the hope Lea might get a little sea side swim. Little had I known the tide was actually out at that moment in time. So it was time to go for a run, play fetch and meet a few other beach dog walkers. When we arrived, she did have a rather odd look on her face as if to say, “Okay, where is the sea HumanDad, just looks like a large field to me.” So with this we simply went a rather long walk hoping we might actually come across either some sand or a little inlet of the sea. Eventually we did find what you might consider to be a little bit of sand if nothing else. So out came the tennis balls and the running shoes. Well my running shoes anyway. Think Pamela was planning to leave all the ball fetching to either me or Lea. 🙂
So. as I am sure you would expect, Lea firstly went on the good old fashioned sniffing spree, smelling all these new smells and taking in her surroundings. Running space as far as she could see, you could honestly see her eyes light up. Looking around and just wondering how she was going to get all this space and exploration in the shortest possible time. BUT THEN she heard me unwrap the tennis balls. Her ears pricked up and she was all around us, watching our every move as she knew we would have to throw it for her at some point. 🙂
Within minutes, it was the old nose nudge on the hand to encourage us to throw the ball, knocking the ball out of my hand several time to get our attention and the ball thrown. To to discourage the attention seeking, I simply threw the ball, and she was off like a shot. Running through all the small and large puddles as if they simply were not there. Then bringing the ball back to us. Dripping wet and covered in sand, nothing less than expected really, that was until she went after the ball and sprinted past it trying stop and pick it up at the same time and slid sideways through a nice big puddle. Returning back to us, with ball in mouth, soaking wet herself and a face full of sand. Well with this we had to give her face a rinse down, which she did not take to kindly to at all. 🙂
Pretty soon, along came a few more people walking their dogs as well, Lea was so wanting to make friends with the miniature poodle and the Rhodesian Ridge back. The poodle was certainly a little character, he just could not wait for his owners to throw the ball and let him go sprinting after it. Don’t get me wrong, its great to see such a small dog having so much fun, but its also odd here in the UK to see a water soaked dirty poodle doing so much running. There are so much better known for being these dainty little pets that always look so perfectly manicured. But I am pretty sure the family will have manicured him once he was home again. The Rhodesian however was the complete opposite, large and gentle, (like most large dogs really), he just wanted to watch the little fella chase after the ball, although he did try from time to time. Think his size just meant there was no way he was going to get the ball first. 🙂 Lea was very well behaved, sitting next to me as they all went about their business and played with their ball. Although anybody who knows Lea, knows that was not actually what she wanted to be doing, she wanted to go and introduce herself and play ball with them. Unfortunately, not the best idea with pets she does not know and who do not know her. 🙂
With some more time spent walking and throwing the ball for Lea at the beach, it was soon time to start heading for home or at least taking Pamela home first. So we all loaded up the car again and off we went. Lea had another quick wander around Pamela’s place whilst Pamela was kind enough to refill my travel mug with coffee before we headed off again. Lea got her huge farewell hugs and we were on our way back home again to Manchester. And I give you all two guesses who slept all the way home. That’s the one, Lea slept all the way home, all cozy and comfy on her bed. With the occasional disgruntled moan if I took a corner a little to quickly or hit a pot hole in the road. Such a little madam is our Lea.
Well that’s kind of the end of her little tale for the day, although I hear via the grapevine Pamela has written a little poem about the day she spent with Lea. Perhaps that will be the next to come online. 🙂
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Welcome to the Advice –In Control In Unusual Situations With Dogs –
This section looks at how proof training can help eliminate the dangers even the most obedient dog can face when in a provocative situation.
This training will ensure that he deals with the situation the way you expect them to.
Most serious trainers are familiar with the concept of proof training — conditioning a dog to perform in less-than-ideal circumstances. It’s a type of mental stress test, asking for concentration in difficult surroundings.
Proof training provokes disobedience in a controlled environment so that the dog may be corrected, and therefore learn. Conditioning the dog to ignore distractions helps to prevent disobedience in similar unplanned situations. The dog learns to obey no matter what is going on around it.
Use your imagination to create unusual tests, because the unusual will happen.
Run through the training area shouting and clapping your hands.
Turn out the lights and work in the dark.
Bounce a ball.
Toss shoes and soda cans across the floor.
Wear funny hats and costumes.
In basic, any action or costume that may not be the normal for you or the situation the dog may find themselves in.
It’s a refreshing break of routine for everyone, and dogs that can obey in these situations are steady dogs. They assume every distraction is just another trick and they’re not going to fall for it!
While a failure in training is not a life-or-death trauma, a failure in obedience outside the training could very well be fatal. A dog that will not reliably come when called, heel off lead and stay, runs a terrible risk of injury or death.
As responsible dog owners, we have two choices; never take our dogs from the security of our own homes, or effectively train them to function daily in the outside world.
"Real Life" Obedience
Classroom training can give you a head start, but proof training has to be done in the "real world." You must train your dog to be trustworthy outside the artificial conditions of the ring or class.
Your first step is to know your own dog. Know their weaknesses as a dog, as a member of their breed, and as a unique individual. Perhaps their "Achilles heel" is horses, cats, cars, bicycles, garbage cans, meter readers, or all of the above! Learn the temptations he can’t resist, and drill on these unmercifully.
Some breeds have problems overcoming natural impulses [in order] to give you their full attention. Sporting breeds, for example, have been bred to find, flush and retrieve birds, and are easily distracted when birds are present.
The object of proof training is not to smother this in-bred trait, but to remind the dog that you are in control, and you are the one who decides what activity will be pursued.
A case in point is an OTCh. Pointer who was distracted during a competition by a pigeon flying across the ring. The dog froze to mark the pigeon’s progress, and waited until it was gone to complete their exercise. Although they resisted the urge to chase the bird, they couldn’t totally ignore it.
Proof training had not destroyed their natural instincts, for this dog also performed well in field work. they had simply been trained to respond first to commands, rather than to their own instincts.
Proof-trained Beagles will still run rabbits, and Border Collies will still herd livestock. Dobermans will still bark at intruders, and Brittanys will still chase birds. But, with the proper conditioning, they will relinquish these activities when you find them unacceptable or dangerous. That’s the purpose of proof training.
To begin your real-life training, select an exercise you are sure your dog knows perfectly (for example, sit-stay). Now devise a temptation you think will persuade him to disobey.
Don’t make this test too easy; you really want them to flunk a few times so you can show them what you want. Try to anticipate Their reaction so you can be ready with an appropriate correction.
For example, as a sit-stay distraction, place a cat in front of your sitting dog. Tell the dog to stay, take a firm grip on the lead, and have a helper shoo the cat away. If the dog tries to chase, correct them, and repeat the command to stay. Repeat the exercise until they do not try to pursue the cat.
If they do not lunge at the cat, they have passed the first test. Praise them for obeying, and make the test more difficult. Remove the lead. Increase your distance from the dog. Chase the cat away yourself by shouting and clapping your hands. Step out of sight, leaving the dog and cat alone together. (Note that this requires a very patient cat!) Use different temptations, especially those that appeal to your dog.
Start cautiously, and work up slowly on each temptation, achieving reliability at each level of difficulty. Don’t attempt too much too quickly, or you may be disappointed at your lack of success.
Proof training is like physical exercise; a gradual conditioning builds strength. You’ll have a real sense of accomplishment when you return from an out-of-sight stay to find your dog sitting staunchly, while the cat preens tantalizingly within reach!
"training collar syndrome," when the dog believes they won’t be corrected if they are not wearing his chain collar. Dogs do associate different activities with their different collars, and they tend to be exclusive in their association. "When I’m wearing my hunting collar, I don’t have to come all the way in when called. When I’m wearing my show collar, no one dares correct me." Practice obedience with every collar.
Certainly most disobedience occurs off-lead and out-of-collar, so this is where you should concentrate your work. Remove a dog’s collar, and they will wriggle and shake themselves. "Free at last," their body language is saying!
Your dog must believe that obedience is required at all times, even when you can’t physically control them. Go back through your successful proof-trained exercises without the benefit of collar and lead, just to be certain this is reliable.Train your dog in places where they often disobey. If your city dog becomes "deaf and blind" on your country outings, take time to train in those surroundings. If, for example, he chases livestock, hold a training session in the pasture or barnyard.
Work until they understands they must pay attention and obey you in that very spot. Now release them, and let them begin his pursuit.
Can you call him away? Congratulations!
Does he ignore you?
Time for more proof training.
Incorporating proof training into everyday living requires the same pattern of correction and praise as competition training. When your dog gives in to temptation, they won’t learn to resist unless they is corrected immediately.
Don’t hesitate to correct them because you’re embarrassed to "make a scene" in public. Don’t hesitate to praise them in the high, silly "Good boy!" voice they love, just because someone might hear you. Remember, you’re doing this for your dog.
One important element remains. Dogs will be dogs, not obedient robots, and we wouldn’t want them to be otherwise. Some obedience problems can’t be conquered with proof training. There may be some temptations your dog can never be trusted to resist, and it’s your responsibility to know those, and protect him from them.
Objectively evaluate your dog’s reliability. Don’t be blinded to potential dangers by ego, laziness, or overconfidence.
There is no end to proof training; it goes on every day of your dog’s life. New situations constantly arise that you will need to teach them about. It isn’t easy, but the rewards are many, and the alternatives deadly.
Put forth the extra effort to proof train your dog for practical obedience, and you’ll enjoy a true companion who can share your life safely and sanely. The obedience degrees you earn can represent genuine achievement; don’t settle for an empty title.
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Welcome to the Advice – Dog Trainer
Before you begin your dog’s obedience training
you need to choose a dog trainer.
Even if you plan to train your dog yourself using methods from a book or video, you need to know that the author or presenter is a competent, professional and effective trainer.
Below are some tips that will help you choose a dog trainer who’s just right for your, and your dog’s, learning style.
Training your dog is much easier if it’s fun for both of you. It needn’t be dull or boring, and it shouldn’t be fear-inducing.
Pick a dog trainer whose classes are full of people enjoying themselves. Look for people having a positive and successful learning experience. A professional and competent instructor will encourage you to observe a class before you make your decision.
If the instructor rejects your request to observe a class, leave.
You’re looking for one who’s easy to deal with and wants their customers to enjoy the experience. If they won’t let you observe, how will you know before you buy? Take your dog, and your business, where you’re more welcome.
If you’re using a book, look for an entertaining writing style.
You want the trainer to speak to you from the book, not just throw information at you. Does she use humorous anecdotes or jokes to lighten the presentation? Spend an hour or so in the bookstore or your library until you find a book that suits your learning style.
Do you want to use a video?
As with live classes, look for an instructor who has an entertaining and relaxing manner. You don’t want one with the delivery of a stuffy university professor. Look for one who speaks to you by looking into the camera "at" you.
It’s more difficult to choose a training video before buying since you can’t just skim through it like you can with a book.
Does the local dog club rent out its training videos? This may be the best way to find the video that suits you. If not, you may have to rely on reviews and testimonials.
Speak with current clients.
This is another reason why it’s good to choose a dog trainer who allows you to observe a class. You have the opportunity to ask current customers about their training experience.
If you will be having private training classes, ask to speak to others who have used the same trainer for private lessons.
Sometimes a trainer’s methods and style differ between group and private training.
For books and videos, you’ll have to rely on testimonials, reviews and recommendations. Unfortunately, testimonials and reviews can be edited to show only the good side. This is something that is happening more and more within the world of reviews.
This isn’t to say that it’s happening with obedience training videos and books; however, it is something to be alert to. If you don’t feel good about the reviews and testimonials you’ve read, ask other dog owners to recommend a book or video.
Choose a dog trainer who:
Provides a clear explanation of each lesson, including the expected outcome demonstrates the behavior you’ll be teaching to your dog.
Provides clear instructions along with written handouts to help you teach the behavior.
Gives you enough time during the class to begin practicing that day’s lesson
Provides individual attention to ensure your proper use of the training technique.
This is where obedience training books and videos have an advantage, especially videos. Any good book or video will follow the first three points listed above.
If the presentation is clear and engaging , you should have no problem understanding the training technique. The trainer will demonstrate the technique and give you time to try it yourself.
Then you can turn off the video, or close the book, and practice. If you become stuck on some point, you can simply review the material.
Pick an instructor who is always improving her own skills and knowledge.
Ask if she’s a member of any educational organizations for trainers, such as the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) in the United States, or the Canadian Association of Professional Pet Dog Trainers (CAPPDT).
A training book or video should list the credentials of the author or presenter and any organizations to which she belongs. Pick a trainer who always strives to protect your dog’s health in a group training setting. She should require that all dogs, and especially puppies, are vaccinated prior to class, and she should ask for proof. Ask her which vaccinations are required, then discuss them with your veterinarian if you are uncomfortable with the requirements. Choose a dog trainer who uses tools and methods that are humane and not harmful to your dog, or to you. You want one who does not use shocks, kicks, beatings or other physical attacks, or any other training methods or tools that could harm your dog or cause him distress.
Dog’s temperament and breeding vary, making it more difficult for some dogs to learn certain behaviors. Owners’ levels of experience with dogs, and their commitment to the training process, vary. These variables make it impossible for the instructor to offer a guarantee to achieve certain results with you.
Choose a dog trainer who promises to do everything to ensure your satisfaction with there services.
The same holds true with books and videos. The author or presenter cannot guarantee that the required result will be achieved, but will be able to guarantee the professionalism of the content and presentation.
Choose a dog trainer with care and planning.
Don’t leave your research to the last minute, and don’t rush into it. You’ll be living with the consequences for several years.
Review your learning style and your dog’s temperament and abilities. If you’re the type who needs hands-on coaching, a class will be best for you.
If you learn best on your own, and you’re a visual learner, use a video. If you want to go at your own pace, or your dog’s, a book might be best.
Below are links to help you find and choose a dog trainer near you. Association of Pet Dog Trainers, (APDT) The APDT directory lists trainers from England Canada and Australia, so you can choose a dog trainer from this directory, or use one listed below.
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Welcome to the Advice – An Evacuation Kit
Create an evacuation kit now (or right after you create one for yourself and family members) so that if disaster looms, everything is there, in one place.
In minutes you’ll have everything in the car and be escaping the danger.
What You’ll Need in Your Dog’s Kit
Pack a two week supply of dry food in an airtight, waterproof container. If you’re using canned food, buy flip-top cans or purchase a can opener for your evacuation kit use only.
If you’re using frozen food, like the "bones and raw food diet", you’ll need ice packs and a cooler that plugs into your car lighter to keep the food from thawing.
Also take along treats and chew toys to keep your dog calm during stressful periods and if they have to be restrained or tethered for long stretches of time.
Instructions on what and how much to feed your dog in case you’re not available or not able to feed your dog.
Include any foods your dog cannot eat due to allergies.
Try to feed your dog on their normal regular schedule, and feed them regular food if at all possible.
This will help keep their stress levels lower. It will also reduce the possibility of them suffering from diarrhea.
Keep at least two weeks’ worth of bottled or purified water on hand at all times. A large dog could need a gallon or more per day, especially if it is hot or the dog is stressed. Store it out of direct sunlight to avoid algae growth, and rotate the water at least every other month.
Do not let your dog drink flood water or water that may have been contaminated. "Boil water" warnings mean that tap water is unsafe for you and your dog to drink.
Non-spill food and water bowls, and a spoon for canned food.
Newspaper for bedding and/or litter.
A collar, leash, harness and muzzle for each dog. Ensure each collar has your dog’s name, as well as your name, phone number and address (in case the phones aren’t working). If you’re relocating for an extended period of time, attach an alternate phone number to the collar.
Use a crate for smaller dogs, and label each crate with your name and contact information. Larger dogs, and dogs that prefer to be outside, can be secured with a stake and some chain or wire.
A two week supply of medications. Have an ice cooler or plug-in cooler and ice packs ready to store any medications that need refrigeration. Ice is often available from emergency shelters.
Obtain tranquilizers from your vet if your dog is high-strung or easily frightened. Add instructions on the dose and frequency of medications. Also include your vet’s and pet pharmacy’s contact information for refills.
Paper Work and Records
Pet Information. If you don’t have a documentation package, check out Dog Information and Records for help assembling it. Your dog first aid kit. See Dog First Aid Kits for information on making your own evacuation kit, buying prepackaged kits, and familiarizing yourself with the supplies in your kit.
If your kit didn’t come with a pet first aid book, add one to your survival kit.
Also make sure you know which vet clinics and animal hospitals will be open in your area in case you need emergency care for your dog.
A flashlight, solar/crank/battery powered radio, and fresh spare batteries, all in resealable plastic bags. Plastic bags and pooper scooper. Paper towels, a small container of dish soap, and trash bags. Two non-essentials that can make your dog’s life, and yours, a little easier are a grooming brush, and a bottle of either "Rescue Remedy" or "First Aid Remedy," two herbal products that you can use to relieve some of your dog’s tension and stress. If you have the room, consider an aromatherapy diffuser and some calming scents to use with it. They are very effective in relieving stress and anxiety. Check out Aromatherapy for Dogs for more information. A plastic container large enough to carry all the supplies except the water. Pack the water in sturdy cardboard boxes or several plastic crates. Remember, water is heavy: four US gallons weigh over 30 pounds, and four Imperial gallons (18 litres) weigh 40 pounds (18.2 kilograms). Place the water and the container full of supplies in plain site of your main house entrance so that anyone checking your home can find it. Don’t store them in your kitchen or garage, as most house fires start in those areas.
Check the evacuation kit twice a year, perhaps on your birthday and your dog’s birthday. Replace the food. Test the batteries and replace them if necessary. And remember to change the water every one to two months, as mentioned above.
Place "Pet Inside" stickers in your main floor windows, and leave a note on your door explaining where in the house/on the property rescuers can find your dog and the evacuation kit. Leave your work contact number and your vet’s contact info for rescuers as well.
There are several agencies and organizations providing information and/or support to help you and your dog during disasters or emergencies.
Disaster Evacuation Plan for more information on these sources of help to create your dogs evacuation kit.
Training Your Rottweiler to Listen to You
Why Won”t My Rottweiler Listen To Me?
This is a common question that most first-time Rottweiler owners ask me. Before I answer your question, let me ask you a few instead:
- Do you have to raise your voice every time you want your Rottweiler to listen to you?
- Does your Rottweiler always come or sit on command – anytime and anywhere you want him to?
If your answers are mostly in the negative, its time you seriously reconsider your role as a sincere Rottweiler trainer and an ideal pet parent.
Get Your Rottweiler To Listen To You
Before you begin any training, you must first establish yourself as the "ALPHA dog" of your family. Your Rottweiler must know that you’re the leader of the pack and it is YOU who is in charge.
Here is a list of simple DO”s and DONT”s that you must follow if you want to be the Alpha:
- Always go out or come in through the door first – remember you are the leader;
- Always eat first – give your Rottweiler something to eat only after you”ve finished your meal;
- Don’t circle around your Rottweiler when he is lying on the floor – make your Rottweiler move out of your way instead;
- Don”t let your Rottweiler set the rules – pay attention to him when you think fit and not whenever he demands;
- Don’t permit your Rottweiler to sleep with you in your bed – demarcate his sleeping area clearly.
Once you successfully established yourself as the Alpha, training your Rottweiler and making him listen will be a lot easier than you can imagine. Remember, if your Rottweiler does not learn to "listen", all your training efforts will be in vain!
Does your Rottweiler know his name? Does your Rottweiler look at you whenever you call him by his name? This is the first and the most critical step involved in Rottweiler Training. If your Rottweiler doesn”t respond to his name, you cannot have his attention for teaching him any other commands.
To make sure that your Rottweiler recognizes his name, take a treat in your hand and hold it away from your body. Call your Rottweiler”s name. He is most likely to look at the treat in your hand. Continue calling his name untill he turns and looks at your eyes. Give him the treat immediately. Repeat this exercise by holding the treat in the other hand. Once you”re sure that your Rottweiler has learnt to recognize his name, just call his name and reward him for looking at you by petting or with a hug.
You must understand that Rottweilers respond far better to positive reinforcement than they do to coercion or force.
Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com
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Building Weekend At Rotty Ranch
With Rottwieler Lea
Well, it is a glorious summers Saturday morning here in the UK. Making a fresh brew and deciding what to do today.
- Do I work on the laptops as normal???
- Should I spend the day in the garden, with Lea and Crew doing some real work and build something???
Okay so a building project, that has been on my mind for a while has gained the winning bid. I am going to spend the day with Lea in the garden and build a large trellis for some climbing plants. During which time, Lea will have free run of the house, garden and driveway. Something she does not always get with my work load.
So its off out in to the garden and as soon as I open the gate into the grassed area, Lea shoots straight over to the Doggie Gate to see if there is any sign of Lilly or Polly from next door. She does love playing with them, when they are out. 🙂
The day started off just great, Lea was helping me get all the tools out ready, that was until she saw the ladders come out that is. Once the main ladders sets came out she lost all interest and decided she wanted to go and either play or lay in the sun on the grass. So as you would expect I left her to do what ever she wanted to do. She seemed happy enough, pottering around in and out of the drive keeping an eye on me as I was up and down the ladder fitting all the bamboo.
In basic I am building a large scale trellis to help hide the building next door, which is a power station. While we have finally managed to get climbers to hide the galvanized fence, it is now time to hide the building from our view as much as we can without causing damage to the power station, or blocking out the light from a neighbours cottage.
So the day continued as expected, Lea up and down the drive way, watching the world go by and greeting people as they passed. Popping her head up once in a while to check I was either okay, or just doing the job properly. Lea is a great supervisor after all.
And then all of a sudden, I hear her sprint up the driveway, well there is only one reason she would sprint, Elaine, (Polly and Lilly’s Humummy) must be home. This means there is a chance she might get to play with her friends. Next thing I know, Elaines head pops over the gate to say “Hi” to Lea, as always Lea is loving seeing Elaine, tail wagging, all excited stood on hind feet to reach up high on the gate so that Elaine can fuss/stroke her.
Quickly chatting to Elaine whilst I am up the ladder, I know Lea is going to be a little disappointed as Elaine has only popped home to let her Lilly and Polly out whilst she is on lunch. So I come down the ladder a few minutes later, only to find Lilly is laid on her back with her head through the gate, looking to get attention from Lea, Polly is stood on hind feet as always reaching up to the top of the gate for human attention and fussing. And there is Lea back and forth from them both trying to get attention and kisses from them both through the human gate. After several minutes of this, Elaine takes her two off for their lunch time walk and Lea shoots down the garden to look over the fence and watch them playing on the common at the back.
So Lea stands there for a good ten or twenty minutes before she gets bored and realizes she is on her own this afternoon. She then potters up to the gate on the drive so that she can sit in the cool area. During which time, I have returned back up the ladder to fit more bamboo canes for the trellis. Several hours go by, Lea has occasionally moved to stretch, drink or eat and perhaps once in a while bark at somebody passing, just to let them know she is listening. 🙂
By this time, I have lost all track of time and guess Lea has been enjoying the sunshine and is fast sleep in the drive way, but then suddenly she is up to her feet like a shot and sprinting down to the garden. Keeping in mind, I am 30ft in the air on a ladder and not able to see what is happening, when suddenly three dogs come shooting up the driveway, chasing, play fighting and looking for toys between themselves.
“How The Heck Did You Two Get In”
I say as I obviously notice Polly and Lilly have managed to open the Doggie gate on their own.
“I guess your Humummy Elaine must be home then ah, Lilly and Polly“
So I come down the ladder, knowing that Lilly will not be happy, unless we play a little fetch, whereas Lea and Polly are more than happy just chasing each other around the garden. Lilly just loves to fetch any toys you throw for her. She will completely ignore the other two as they play at winding each other up and running in circles around the garden. They are a comical pair and think Lilly just seems odd because all she wants to do is fetch the ball/toys.
With this Lea disappeared, gone, nowhere to be seen. I call her, send Lilly and Polly to look for her. Both of whom totally ignore me and go for a wander of their own, exploring my house, kitchen, up and down the stairs and then into the cellar office. Pair of little tykes. So its been a few minutes and Lea is nowhere to be seen still, when suddenly she appears through the Doggie gate licking her lips. “LEA” your going to ruin your tea, you been at Lilly and Pollies dinner again, you little scamp. Opps then Elaine appears with a chuckle, she mentions Lea went in on the grand “Food Hunt”. Honestly you would think I never fed Lea at times, always looking for her next meal. 🙂
Within no time at all, it was starting to get dark and all the dogs were still playing and messing around in the garden. Even Lilly was still chasing the Kong every time I threw or kicked it, they just cant be worn out these guys. Think they have explored just about every corner of the garden, drive and even the house. But then thats nothing new as they always do explore and play.
So Lilly and Polly are off home back through the Doggie gate to get their dinner now and it’s time for Lea to come in for her dinner and a rest. Lea’s food was prepared a while back so should have cooled down for her by this time. Leaving her to eat dinner as I quickly pack the tools away, put the ladders indoors and have a general clear up. I’m am actually no where near finished yet after being distracted by the dogs. Clearing up takes me a little longer than expected and its almost dark.
So I finally get back inside and start to think about so relaxing time for myself, when I spot, would you believe it, the one that has been taking it easy all day. Lea is seriously fast asleep on her bed, with all four feet in the air and is completely out cold. Even the sound of her walking lead does not get a reaction. She is simply out for the count. At which point, it goes without saying I take another picture of her again, okay perhaps a little unlady like, but that’s our Lea, seriously not a lady in this house. 🙂
Now at this point, its is time for us to say, “good night and sweet dreams” . We will be back with more tales over the coming days I am sure. 🙂
Building Weekend At Rotty Ranch With Rottwieler Lea
Welcome to the Rottweiler Web Site
Basics of Rottweiler Training
It”s essential for Rottweiler parents like you to know certain basic factors that determine your relationship with your Rottweiler and can go a long way in training him effectively.
Before you begin training your Rottweiler, it is absolutely essential that you build a loving bond with him. This is important as it helps you to understand his needs and instincts and also allows your Rottweiler to have complete trust in you.
Let us see how…….
How To Bond With Your Rottweiler
Building a bond with your Rottweiler is the first and the most crucial step involved in training him successfully. As soon as you bring your Rottweiler home, you must first try to develop a caring and loving relationship with him in order to win his trust and confidence.
When Rottweilers are secure in the knowledge that they belong to the family, they are more likely to respond better to their owners” training commands. Just like with any relationship, there must be mutual trust and respect between you and your Rottweiler.
Trust takes time to develop and respect comes from defining boundaries and treating any breach of those boundaries with firmness and fairness.
Without enforceable limitations, respect can’t be developed. And when there is no respect, building a bond with your Rottweiler is almost impossible.
4 Golden Rules To Building A Relationship With Your Rottweiler :
- Spend quality time together;
- Take him out in the world and experience life together;
- Establish and promote a level of mutual respect; and
- Develop a way of communicating to understand each other”s needs.
Building a bond with your Rottweiler will not only help you manage him better but will also make your Rottweiler calm, quiet and an extremely well-adjusted pet.
Love Your Rottweiler and He Will Love You back
Once you”re succesful in building a bond with your Rottweiler, you can rest assured that training him and teaching him new and clever tricks will be a cakewalk.
How Your Rottweiler Learns…
Your Rottweiler”s learning period can be divided into five phases:
The Teaching Phase – This is the phase where you must physically demonstrate to your Rottweiler exactly what you want him to do.
The Practicing Phase – Practice makes Perfect. Once a lesson is learnt, practice with your Rottweiler what you have just taught him.
The Generalizing Phase – Here you must continue practicing with your Rottweiler in different locations and in an environment with a few distractions. You can take your Rottweiler out for a walk, or to a nearby park and command him to practice whatever you”ve taught him.
Practicing the learned lessons in multiple locations and in the presence of small distractions will help him learn and retain lessons better .
The Testing Phase – Once you”re sure that your Rottweiler has achieved almost 90% success….he responds correctly almost every time you give a command, you must start testing his accuracy in newer locations with a lot of distractions.
Example: Take him to the local shopping mall and ask him to obey your command. He may not come up with the correct response the very first time you do this, but you must not lose hope.
The idea is to test your Rottweiler to see how he responds in an environment which is new to him. Set-up a situation where you are in control of the environment and your Rottweiler.
There are only 2 possibilities:
- Your Rottweiler succeeds!!! (Trumpets please!)
- In case your Rottweiler fails, re-examine the situation. Review and/or change your training. Then try testing again.
Keep on testing until he succeeds. Follow the rule of the 3 Ps – patience, persistence, praise.
Internalizing Phase – Finally, comes the extremely rewarding phase where your Rottweiler does everything he is taught to do even without your commands.
- Never scold your Rottweiler if he fails. It”s not his fault. You have failed as a trainer!
- You must be patient and persistent for your efforts to show rewards.
- Appreciate and love your Rottweiler when he does it right! A little encouragement will work wonders for your Rottweiler.
- Rottweiler Training is easy when you do it right.
Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com
Rottweiler Digital Archives
As you may have gathered, over time we build a huge library of pictures and videos of our little crew, now known as our digital archives. Through this page you can access the relevant archives or links to various Social Video and Picture platforms.
Please feel free to drop by our Photo Archives
Or Perhaps even our Video Archives
Welcome to the Advice – Lifting A Dog Safely –
THE Advice of Rotty Ranch Crew & Friends
At some point before or during first aid treatment, you may need to lift and move your dog.
Once you’ve completed the care, you’ll need to transport her to your car and then to the veterinarian or emergency animal clinic.
Use the following information to correctly lift and move your dog so that their injuries don’t worsen, and you both remain safe.
The first rule in providing first aid to dogs is to move the injured dog only if their life is in further danger from a hazard, such as traffic or fire.
If the threat to your dog’s life continues, your first priority is to move them to a safer location before starting dog first aid.
The second rule of first aid is to ask for help. Don’t try to do it all yourself. This is especially true when trying to move the injured dog. You could end up injuring yourself by trying to more them on your own. The same holds true when treating your dog.
Now isn’t the time to be shy. Ask for help. However, sometimes there isn’t anyone around to help, so you’ll have to lift and move your dog, and treat them, on your own.
Move Your Dog To Safety
If they are light enough, or you are strong enough to move them when they are healthy, you should be able to lift and move your dog without risk to yourself.
If they too large or heavy, or you have limited strength, you may have to drag them to safety.
Grab their front legs and drag them toward you. Be careful not to bend or twist her neck or trunk. This will reduce the risk of (further) spinal cord injury.
If one or both front legs are injured, grab the hind legs. Never drag her sideways (for example, by pulling one front leg and one hind leg).
If your dog is small enough to carry easily, get her to the vet or clinic quickly.
Plan your lift and carry so that you don’t injure them more during the trip to the car.
Keep an injured leg on the side away from your body, so that it isn’t caught between your body and theirs.
Rest their chest on your forearm so that their legs can dangle below, if suitable.
If her chest or abdomen is injured, stand next to the uninjured side, facing them. Bend down and place one arm below their neck and the other at the top of their hind legs.
Bring your arms together, sweeping them up into your arms. Their chest should be resting on one forearm, with their hind quarters on your other forearm.
Remember when doing this to bend from the knees, not the waist. You don’t want to injure your own back.
If your dog is ill from disease, poisoning, or heat stroke, there is likely little risk of injury, and a greater need for speed. Lift and move your dog as you normally do and get them to the car.
If they are too large to carry, you have a few options to help you lift and move your dog to the car.
If they are conscious and seems okay overall but can’t use their hind legs, use a blanket or towel to help them walk.
Use the towel as a sling to lift their hind legs while she moves forward with their front legs.
Fold the towel in half lengthwise and run one end under their belly. Grab both ends and slowly lift them.
If you are strong enough to lift with one hand, walk beside them and offer lots of praise and encouragement.
If you need both hands to hold the towel ends, straddle their hind end and lift.
Once at the car, you may have to improvise a ramp to help them up and in, if you don’t have the strength to lift them.
If you have an assistant, you can improvise a stretcher. An ironing board, a plank, or a narrow door can serve to help you carry your dog to the car. If possible, add some padding over the stretcher.
If you are in the country, or camping, make a stretcher with two strong poles and two jackets. Turn the sleeves inside out so that they are inside the jacket.
Zip up the jackets. Run the poles through the sleeves. This creates a double layer of material where the stress from the weight is located.
Lash a small branch or piece of wood to either end to help keep the stretcher taut.
Test the stretcher before you lift and move your dog with it. You don’t want it to break and drop them to the ground.
If you have no poles, but have more people, you can use a blanket lift. Roll a blanket lengthwise for half its width. Place the rolled half along your dog’s back.
With one person supporting the head and neck, turn your dog over the roll onto the unrolled part of the blanket. Unroll the rest of the blanket.
Have each person grab the blanket. One person should hold it near your dog’s head and neck (to minimize possible spinal cord injury).
Another should hold the two ends at the rear. If you have more people available, have one on either side to support your dog’s back and thighs.
Once you are all in position, rise together, bending from the knees, and carry them to your car or a stretcher.
If you’re on your own and have only a blanket or towel, pull your dog onto it and use it to drag them to the car.
If you think your dog needs attention along the way, park the car and attend to them, then continue on your way.
Do not use your cell phone while driving. Your attention will likely be split already. Calling your vet or another person will only make you less aware of what’s happening around you.
Before you leave home or the accident site, call your vet or clinic with details. They will be ready to help you lift and move your dog when you arrive.
If you have an assistant who knows how to drive, have them drive for you so that you can attend to your pet.
This person will likely be less emotionally attached and thus will have a clearer head for dealing with traffic.
Unlike in an accident where a human is involved, no medical team will be coming to help you.
You’ll need to lift and move your dog to your car, then get them to the vet clinic as quickly and safely as you can.
Practice how to lift and move your dog at least once a year, perhaps on her birthday.